Our trip is a two-day get away in southern Malawi. We have learned about a quaint, quiet, and scenic place that is just the setting where we can recover our strength after a case of malaria. Our destination is nestled on the beautiful slopes of Mulanje Massif, a 9,842-foot (3002 meter) peak, and 13 x 16 mile (22 x 26 kilometers) circumstance. From nearly level plains this majestic Isenberg leaps up out of the earth. Just the description made us want to visit. It’s isolation and beauty is going to give us time to rest, recover and plan for the next few weeks. It is not what many people do who come to the magnificent Massif. Hiking and camping probably take precedence over resting, relaxing and sleeping. But to each his own, right? Our destination is the Lujeri Tea Estate, and we have heard the elegance will remind us of a past era that we can only read.
Lujeri is approximately 120 kilometers, or 74 miles, south of Blantyre, the commercial hub of the nation. From Blantyre the road is tarmac and easy. M-4 is relatively new, and we follow it to its end at the junction of M-2. The Marif looks at us from high above. As the clouds complete their trip across the top of the Marif, they come to the edge, then roll and tumble down the side as though they are riding a long, sloping slide to the bottom. The mountain fills the windshield of our approaching vehicle, all the way across, and from top to bottom. The view of the mountain seems to flow over the landscape in a cascade of green that is as breathtaking as we could have imagined.It is late morning as we pass the small trading center of Mulanje. There are the three of us, Suzi, Elias Mwale and myself. This is Elias’ first trip ever to Lujeri, even though he has heard of it all of his life. He is from the central region of Malawi, and most Malawians seldom have the opportunity to see the beauty of their land. This is a sad commentary that lives with the poor. Walking is their only means of transportation. It is also the first trip for my wife and myself.
After passing the Mulanje Trading Center we come to the sign pointing the way. The excitement begins to build. At every curve we can see the mountain, and it continues to loom higher and higher in our view. On both sides of us are the tea fields, and the homes of the workers. Suddenly we comer around a curve and arrive at the sign pointing to Lujeri. We are staying in the main house, and it is a striking site as it lounges casually on the side of the mountain. As the dominate manor of the plantation it has a commanding position overlooking the tea estate, as well as a clear view of three other houses positioned on distant ridges, where the previous managers once lived.
There is just the three of us, but we have two housemen, and a maid hosting us. They will be taking care of our every whim. It is such a surprise for Elias, since his entire life has been filled with serving, but never being served. For the next two days he will learn what it is like to have someone serve him. Suzi and I are both recovering from a bout of malaria, so the time to relax will be great for us as well. The bedrooms, living room, and wrap around veranda are fit for a king, or queen.Because of the distance we have traveled, we decide to just stay close to the house for the afternoon. We’ll rest, and just absorb the splendor around us. It is hard to imagine this scene sits in a land of such poverty, and pain. Just over the mountain there are mud-hut villages as far as one can see. But here, on the former plantation, there is little evidence of the deficiencies that exist in every village and trading center for hundreds of miles in every direction.
After lunch it is time to read a paper, explore the rest of the house, and then go outside for a dip in the pool.
We spend the rest of the day just getting in touch with this wonderland, relaxing, and watching the sun paint it’s ever lengthening shadows along, and down the east side of the mountain. Every few minutes the growing shadows and dwindling sunlight combine their resources to paint an entirely different scene. All too soon the afternoon passes, dinner is served, then a relaxing, roaring fire in the fireplace, and finally a good nights rest.
After breakfast the following morning Elias and I decide it is time to explore the estate. We take the camera and follow the winding road down, and down, until we are immersed in the green leaves of the rows and rows of tea. We spend time just admiring the scene in front of us, while at the same time talking with some of the workers coming up the side of the mountain with baskets of ripened leaves. Suzi remains behind and tries out the veranda … napping!
The road winds ever lower into the valley beside the mountain, and soon the house disappears somewhere behind us. The sound of water in the distance grows in our senses and Elias and I make our way to the nearby river. It is happily splashing and tumbling along the valley floor. The scene is breathtaking and quickly immerses the visitor in the splendor of the mountain, accented by the blue sky, white clouds, and the vivid green of the tea plants. It overwhelms the senses. Even as I snap pictures I know there is no way this scene will ever be taken into custody. It is just too immense, too complex, too complete, and too beautiful. No camera can ever catch its full enormity.
Near dusk Elias and I make our way back to the main house where the staff has the evening meal prepared.
As the sun disappears behind the mountain, a member of the staff brings in a bundle of logs, and a roaring fire springs to life in the fireplace. A wonderful meal awaits us in the dining room nearby, and we settle in for the meal and the small talk that accompanies it. After a fine dinner, we sit in front of the fireplace until the flames begin to look for a place to sleep. It is the signal for us to settle into our rooms for the night. It has been a good day, and we still have part of another day to enjoy before we head back to our work responsibilities. It is certainly what the doctor would have ordered had he known about this place. Already, the pressure and stress of our work has been lifted from our shoulders and we are in touch with the sounds of the night as we lay there listening to the quiet hum of the tiny insects that hover near our screened window. The non-threatening rhythmic sounds lull us to sleep within minutes.Additional pictures from Lujeri may be found at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/malawiproject
For more information about the Malawi Project:
www.malawiproject.org
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